Thermal switchbypass - Yamaha Grizzly Forum : GrizzlyOwners.Com Yamaha Grizzly Forums


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Old 07-06-2008, 11:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Thermal switchbypass

Hello everyone. I am new to the site. Bought a 98 Grizzly 600 I did and found the service manual through here. Only seemed fitting to join. I did some checking on my own and found some contridicting results. The thermal switch activates the oil cooler fan. Its specs showed that to test it there is a starting resistance and as you heat it its resistance goes up. My fan is ok and wouldnt come on so in checking this out I found 5 volts to the thermal switch, which I thought was low, maybe should be 12, but the other wire was a ground so I jumped it and the fan works. So if the switch works in conjuntion with the control modual, why whould this work. And if it works why shell out doh for a new swith when I can put a manual switch in the circuit. Otherwise its a beast. Ive pulled logs with it. Ive pulled brush piles with it Ive pulled logs over slash ,logs , and brushpiles with it. Man this is fun. - Doug
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Old 07-06-2008, 06:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Welcome to our little slice of the pie, D! That bike looks to be in great shape!

I know that we've got some electrical gurus creeping around in here, so c'mon guys!! Let's help this fella out!

(only thing I know about this stuff is to not put my tongue in the electrical sockets anymore...)
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Old 07-06-2008, 08:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You can bypass the switch with A toggle. Its the same mod we do to the fan switch on the 660/700s. When you do it the fan will still run like normal or use the toggle. look at www.grizzhopper.com to see the mod.
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Old 07-07-2008, 08:04 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Upon some further discusion in my home local I considered the switch idea but there were some concerns about the control modual being ruined. Ive realized the 5 volts is sgnal voltage to what I guess would be an AD converter. I thought if in testing a thermo switch I used a resister the lower value of the high temp resistance reading with a switch it would protect the modual. Or does a direct short put the modual so far out of range it reads it as low resistance indicating high temperatures and activates the circuit. I think this is likely true.
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Might be a little dust on the Grizzly
But it only gets better, one piece at a time. 98 600 Green Grizzly. 27" ITP MudLites, EPI Clutch Kit, UNI filter, DynoJet kit - Stage 1, HMF exhaust .Murderfied cooling fan motor.
30 year old Simpson's Sears 46" Plow, crappy little winch. Fabricated harness . . .
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Old 07-13-2008, 09:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thought Id post a follow up as a work in progress. I took out the thermal switch and with leads attached to an ohmmeter hung it in oil. Just the business end. I heated the oil and watched the resistance change from high to low. At 150C and 220C the thermal switch was in spec so I plugged it on the the ATV's harness and the fan came on. When it cooled it went off. I set up my hot oil bath so I could heat when attached to the harness. It worked normaly so I have to check and see just how hot the oil is getting in the ATV. I currently have the carb off to free up the idle air screw. but thats another thread. When Im running I will check temp when Im working it hard. but the thermal switch my be working fine after a good cooking or the torque of it in the block messes with it somehow.
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Might be a little dust on the Grizzly
But it only gets better, one piece at a time. 98 600 Green Grizzly. 27" ITP MudLites, EPI Clutch Kit, UNI filter, DynoJet kit - Stage 1, HMF exhaust .Murderfied cooling fan motor.
30 year old Simpson's Sears 46" Plow, crappy little winch. Fabricated harness . . .
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Old 07-27-2008, 08:10 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I had an idea about the no responsive nature of this switch. I havnt had time to run my 600 to see if it is working now, this is what Im thinking if it isnt working while installed in the block. If anyone has kept an old switch or is running a manual switch to opperate then they want to give this some thought. What I realised was that the aluminum case the switch is threaded into is acting like a big heatsink. I cant change the case but I can machine sone of the brass threads on the thermal switch off so like a hotter sparkplug the heat buildup has to travel farther to be disapated. This may also relieve stress on the internals of this switch when torqued. Im thinking of removing 2 or 3 threads but maybe its smarter to remove one at a time until the switch is back in spec? Cheers
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Might be a little dust on the Grizzly
But it only gets better, one piece at a time. 98 600 Green Grizzly. 27" ITP MudLites, EPI Clutch Kit, UNI filter, DynoJet kit - Stage 1, HMF exhaust .Murderfied cooling fan motor.
30 year old Simpson's Sears 46" Plow, crappy little winch. Fabricated harness . . .
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Old 09-12-2008, 04:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hey was your 600 over heating I`m haveing a problem with that. my belt cover was very hot to the touch and I could here the gas bubbling in the tank if you have any Ideas that would be great Thanks Greg
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Old 11-03-2008, 07:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Found out about the switch they have been known to go bad on the older 600s also the oil coller dosn`t kick in until the oil reaches 300 degrees I found out from Yamaha factory Also I you have seen a new 660 they don`t have the side panels up by the gas tank. If you yake them off you will get beter air flow over the engine Hope this helps Later Extreemteam
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Old 12-15-2008, 10:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I was just checking back to report that my switch began working. I hadnt had a chance to work the beast but today while clearing snow the fan came on. I shut the quad down cause I didnt know what all that squeeking was. Never heard it running cept when I tested it. I wonder if cooking the switch in oit helped free up a stuck switch. Thanks for the panel info Extreemteam. I bought quad used and its got 660 plastic on it. Some places are not a good fit so there is lots of air getting to the head. When I first used it I was dragging logs in 80 deg weather and it got ticking hot at me.
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Might be a little dust on the Grizzly
But it only gets better, one piece at a time. 98 600 Green Grizzly. 27" ITP MudLites, EPI Clutch Kit, UNI filter, DynoJet kit - Stage 1, HMF exhaust .Murderfied cooling fan motor.
30 year old Simpson's Sears 46" Plow, crappy little winch. Fabricated harness . . .
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