top end rebuild/engine removal? - Yamaha Grizzly Forum : GrizzlyOwners.Com Yamaha Grizzly Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-20-2009, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: washington
Posts: 27
top end rebuild/engine removal?

Its time this winter to do a top end rebuild on my 05 660. I was looking through a manual i got from ebay and it says that the engine needs removed from the frame to do a piston/rings, valve seal, top end rebuild..... I just finished a rebuild on a polaris scrambler( i know different animal), and its can be done with the engine in the frame... so my question is i guess, if i have all the plastic off, the tank, and other misc. stuff do i really need to take the entire engine out of the frame for this? it just kinda seems excessive.

05 660, warn bumper, 27" kenda bear claws on itp rims, tamarak rear seat, 3000lb winch, full skids, fender protectors w/ rear pegs
inhybernation6585 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-20-2009, 02:24 PM
Moderator
 
gunny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Above Sea Level
Posts: 4,256
DANG !!! ... I sure hope it can be done in the frame, cause I'm gett'in my parts together to do the same work & I figured I could do it with the motor in the frame ......... DANG !!!!

"Work" is a Dirty Four Letter Word !!!

My Vids -- http://www.youtube.com/user/GunnyE9
gunny is offline  
post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-20-2009, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: washington
Posts: 27
i know..... it was fairly easy with the engine in the polaris but the way its showing in the grizzly everything is a little more cramped.......

05 660, warn bumper, 27" kenda bear claws on itp rims, tamarak rear seat, 3000lb winch, full skids, fender protectors w/ rear pegs
inhybernation6585 is offline  
post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-20-2009, 02:33 PM
Moderator
 
gunny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Above Sea Level
Posts: 4,256
To tell ya the truth, I haven't even looked at the frame & the position of the motor ... I just figured ...... I guess i got to use to do'in everything to my Banshee with the motor was in the frame, that I assumed the Grizz would be the same way.

You know, I had head to change the front diff pinion seal, ya had to take the front diff out of the frame .... Well, I changed the seal with the diff in the frame .... so no axle removal, etc .... a little cramped maybe, but saved me a LOT of work.

Hopefully, the motor will be the same way .....

"Work" is a Dirty Four Letter Word !!!

My Vids -- http://www.youtube.com/user/GunnyE9
gunny is offline  
post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-20-2009, 03:50 PM
Moderator
 
hammer07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Marion Center
Posts: 2,696
i did the top end in a Kodiak with the engine in the frame with no problems at all. I'm sure some of it may have been easier on a workbench, but not enough to warrant removing the engine.

"When life's never dull, wear a hull for your skull!" -Phineas Fletcher


BLUE ('cause it's the fastest, most powerful color)'07 660 with a whole pile of stuff added!

BLUE ('cause it's STILL the fastest, most powerful color)'09 550 w/EPS

http://rocksandruts.com/
hammer07 is offline  
post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-20-2009, 08:17 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: High desert
Posts: 328
The top end can be done with the engine still in the frame. Much easier on a bench, but not needed.
You don't even need to remove the front plastics. If your going to go that far it's actually easier to remove the motor than the front plastics. I just pulled my motor out again to re-torque everything.

Have to remove Left footrest and side covers. On mine the left rear lower a-arm mounts and lower shock mount for same arm had to be unbolted to get access to the rear diff bolts, unbolt rear diff and pull back to drop the rear drive shaft. I left the rear motor mounts attached to frame but un-bolted from block. Front motr mounts stayed attached to block. Lift whole motor up and to the rear to drop the front drive shaft. Unplug all wiring connected to block and comes right out.
To remove front plastics means to un-plug almost every single connector from the wiring harness. Not a tough job, but those connectors can be tough to get apart and break fairly easy.

Might want to do the sheaves and wet clutch in the bike unless you have a motor stand to bolt it too. Trying to get leverage to break those bolts loose is a pain with the motor rocking around on a bench. Same goes for the magneto rotor and gears on the other side, but none of that needs to be removed unless crank is coming out.

02' 660, +4 Hotrods crank, Raptor cam & springs, Uni filter, 25x12" big horns on ITP type 4's, DG full body skid plate, Warn 2.5 in front.
hillbrigger is offline  
post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-21-2009, 12:01 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: new caney
Posts: 106
Hillbrigger, where was this post two weeks ago when I did my top end. I pulled the front plastic, snorkles and all. What a pain in the butt. Next time will be your way. Thanks for the helpful info.

08 Grizzly 660 28" Mudzilla's, Gorilla Stage 1 Lift, Triangle snorkel kit, Billet clutch weights with EPI white spring, Dynatek CDI, Dynojet kit, K&N air filter, 2500lb Warn winch.
jerrydavis is offline  
post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-21-2009, 02:16 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: High desert
Posts: 328
JJ, sorry, just did this on monday. There was no way I was taking the front plastics off AGAIN! lol
Oh and those clutch vent/snorkels are real treat trying to get in once you've put the plastics and motor back in place. Same with the rear brake vent. That one is almost impossible but can be done if you have a daughter with mini hands. :P

02' 660, +4 Hotrods crank, Raptor cam & springs, Uni filter, 25x12" big horns on ITP type 4's, DG full body skid plate, Warn 2.5 in front.
hillbrigger is offline  
post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-21-2009, 08:14 AM
Senior Member
 
rbdenman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Grahamsville
Posts: 7,680
Removing all of the bodywork just seems to be the worst part of any Grizzly project. It does give you a chance to make sure that there's no mud, grit, grime or grease to fall into whatever you've torn apart though...

SOLD!! 2004 Grizzly: Way too many modifications to try and list them all here...
rbdenman is offline  
post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-22-2009, 09:52 PM
Moderator
 
gunny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Above Sea Level
Posts: 4,256
Thanks for all the tips Hillbrigger .... WHEN I get around to it, I'll try to do mine in the frame ... and yes, I may regret it .... we'll see .... [img]/CFIDE/scripts/ajax/FCKeditor/editor/images/smiley/msn/confused_smile.gif[/img]

"Work" is a Dirty Four Letter Word !!!

My Vids -- http://www.youtube.com/user/GunnyE9
gunny is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Yamaha Grizzly Forum : GrizzlyOwners.Com Yamaha Grizzly Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome