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Hey- new to this forum. I recently sold my 98 Grizzly and purchased a 2003 Grizzly. Very different machine that actually stops and goes when you want it to. Anyway, the display has 2 LED's burned out for H & N. There is no way I'm going to shell out 319.00 for a new one, so my questions is- have any of you heard of anyone taking the display apart and replacing the LED's? I realize I have to seal it back up, but are they replaceable or do I have to break out the soldering gun? I can't figure out why they would be bad already, the bike's only got 1023 miles and LED's should last a long time. Could the sensor for the gear selector be bad. The other gears lights up fine. Another one real quick- What should my top speed with the stock tires be? I'm getting around 63/64 on asphalt.
 

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the top speed is about what to expect,,, if yours is like mine the speedo will register about 4mph fast,,, have read where others do too,,,,, as far as the leds go,,, i figure it is a switch somewhere,,,, cant figure both of them going out,,, I will try to check the manual out tonight and see if I can find where it is,,, probably close to the gear shifter,,,,, maybe on the tranny,,,, welcome to the forum,,,,, ,,, ,,, cg
 

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vikitup I do beleve I have seen some where on one of the forums someone put a different colored LED in. For the process im not really sure but I would think that you would have to unsolder the legs and solder in a new one, be tricky but sure can be done. Just Make sure you get the display sealed up again good.

Mike
 

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The only person I have heard of changing the LED's is GrizzHopper from the High Lifter fourm. He is very intellegent with electrical stuff. He instructed me through a one switch reverse and difflock override on my 2003 Grizzly.
 

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Thanks for the quick responses, you guys really watch this site. Thanks for the Grizzhopper lead. Now that I know, I will replace them. I know my around the process, I've been a mechanic for 9 years. I just didn't want to lay into the display if the lights were the printed type that wrap the board. If Grizzhopper was able to de-solder them, then thay are the standard type. One more thing- If any of you have a manual, can you please find out where the signal comes from to alert the LED indicators. I don't want to tear it apart if it is a signal problem. If it's in the trans, then there has to be one sensor for each position. That would make a total of 5 sensors. I looked briefly, and I could only see 3 on the back of the motor. I haven't had a chance to mess with it, it got here on Friday and I rode all weekend- it's still sitting in the shop covered in mud.

In reference to the diff lock- If you over ride the speed sensor to be able to lock it at speed, have you heard of anyone busting up the diff lock? I would like to be able to lock it when hill climing in hairy situations. I would rather not have to stop half way up when it gets rough, then re-start. And what the ****'s up with the lighting on these things? You can't see crap on the trail. All my buddies with the foreman's were joking about putting a candle on the front. But they didn't joke long. This grizzly will pull an electric line like nobody's business. I can almost compare it to my 88 TRX 250R. Very plush suspension. The foreman's didn't have a chance. 6 Honda's down the hatch. Does anyone know how the Rincon does against the 660's. I was very close to buying the Rincon, but I got such a good deal on the Grizzly I had to take it. After having the last 600 Grizz, I didn't want to go through that again. But I am very pleased with this one. I also snagged a set of new black Grizzly wheels and tires from a guy that bought one and instantly put the big ones on. I wanted stock tires because it seems like the larger bigfoot kits rob too much power. My 600 had 26" mud lites that made the machine doggy. Even with a clutch kit, they seem to take away the top end. I rode all weekend and didn't have any problems with stock bald tires and 3 bent rims. The bike also doesn't have the tendency to come back on me, or tip. My older Grizz was non stop coming over on hills that the hondas went right up. I ended up having to buy the hard plastic cases from Walmart for 19.00 for each trip to Wayne or Hatfield-McCoy for protection. We just got back from Hatfield and got 3 more front to back flips under my belt. I've gotten pretty good at bailing off, even on back to front endos- no ****. This 660 proves to be a much better hill climber. I just don't know if it's due to the smaller tires or what. But I guess there are many parameters that changed though. The IRS, smaller tires, lower center of gravity, etc.. Anyway, this bikes a blast- sport/utility wrapped up in a nice package. I just hope I don't submarine this one like the last.
 

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vikitup,
The difflock override is to allow the machine to drive faster than the 22 mph limit once it is locked in, not to lock it in at speed.
 

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I agree with dknard, don't try and put it in diff lock on the move! You will most definately be blowing the gears out of your diff! If you are uncertain the grizz will climb a particular hill just put it in diff lock before you go. No big deal, that way you will be safe and with no busted gears. You said "this Grizz will pull an electric line like no bodies business" What exactly does that mean? LoL. I have never heard that one before! Don't worry about the Rincon, the Grizz out performs it in every situation. Better tranny, brakes etc........Irv
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi- Thanks alot- I didn't realize it even had a cutout for 22 mph. I didn't get that quick with it on because it's a pain in the ass to steer. I guess I'm not going to be able to throw it in at speed. I would still like to be able to hit just in case I'm on a cliff with 3 wheels spinning. In reference to the electric lines. In southern Ohio we have "electric lines" that are endless. Imagine a 200' wide stripped dragway through the mountains. They range from 600 to 2000 yards long depending on the mountain. They head strait up the mountain and down the other side, then back up the next. They are cut in with log skidders and dozers tied to the mountains with winches. Some of them get very steep and very long. They are an absolute blast. Strait up with washout gulleys all of the way up about 3 feet tall. You jump the washouts while doing 50 mph strait up hanging on. Public riding areas block these lines, so you have to find a good starting point on private land.

Now, back to the LED's. Due to what's left of the hurricane hitting here, I got some free time to check out the problem. I tested the circuit and found the problem to be in the neutral switch assembly. It's not just the neutral switch, it has 4 copper contacts in a circle that a spring loaded post rides on depending on which gear it is in. It tells the LED's to light in every gear but reverse. Reverse has it's own sensor. I pulled it out and tested it and found no continuity between the neutral contact and the corresponding wire. The same for high range. The entire sensor is filled with some kind of epoxy or something to prevent corrosion, so I could not see why there was no continuity. I decide to drill a 1/4" hole above where the contact was to gain entry. It's bad anyway, and a replacement is 60.00, what could I hurt. I did that and found the 2 suspect wires were corroded and broken at the solder. I re- soldered and tested the unit = O.K.. I sealed with silicone and installed. It works just fine. Here are some pictures for those of you with the same problem. Thanks for your help on the locker, that could have been a costly mistake.
 

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It's ok to go into 4WD on the move as long as you do it at a slow speed without any stress on the wheels (spinning). For diff-lok I am always stopped and make sure it is engaged before doing any spinning of the tires. Sometimes a rocking back and forth engages it.
 

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DKNARND, thanks for the tips. I actually have been putting it into 4wd at speed without any problems. I figured it was like my older 600 Grizzly, so I treated it the same. I switched the old Grizzy at speed constantly, I never slowed down. I did the same last weekend with the new Grizzly. My main concern was with the diff locker. I was doing around 15 and tried to lock it- then it just made a ratchet sound until I slowed to around 6-7 mph, then it went right in? What does it actually say to do in the manual? I had no idea I was supposed to be at slow speeds to even go into 4wd. I was climbing last weekend and hitting 4wd at high speeds, but that's what I used to do with the old 600. Guess I am either doing it wrong or Yamaha is just covering it's own ass by under stating the abilities of the machine in order to keep riders from tearing the bikes up. I will let you know if I break anything, but I figure there shouldn't be any problems considering the old Grizzly held together just fine.

Thanks
 

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Good pics vic, i haven't heard of anybody with winch problems after a swim? I read alot of forums and seen some pretty nasty pics and no one has ever said anything about winch problems. I guess there is always a first time though?...Irv
 

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Vic,

I sink the Beast often and my Warn 3000 ATV has never given me any hassles at all. If you have a metal winch rope, you should release it all out and wind it in under load after a day in the water. The heat from the winch will dry it out.
Do not bother if you have plasma rope, as plasma rope will not rot!
 

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Been in the water a fe times myself with my Superwinch under and never had any problems with it yet. The only thing I made sure to do was at the end of the day or when I got home I always unwound the winch sprayed some WD40 on the cable and drum then wound it back up under tension. Now have the syn. rope so dont have to worry about it.
 

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there is a whole new unit for sale on ebay,cant remember how much,,,i'll check ,and post it ,and the auction #
 

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someone must have bought it,it was there last night,but now its gone
 
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