I'm having an ignition problem that fixes itself before I can find out what is wrong. I'll be riding along and the ignition will die, no spark that I can detect with a screwdriver in the boot holding near ground while I try to restart. everything else electrical appears to be fine. 15-20min later it will fire up. I have dielectrically greased all my connections because I believed it was a water problem, because I've never totally avoided water on a ride. But now, I let my grizzly warm up and idle for a while, loaded it on my truck, drove 10miles and let it sit over night. next morning it started ran for a bit and shut off. wouldn't restart. drove home pushed it into the garage and ran the battery down while troubleshooting. hooked it up to a charger overnight and it fired up next morning. haven't rode it since. Ordered a new coil but haven't installed it yet. anyone suggest what to check next time it quits? I'll be riding with a multimeter for now. thanks in advance.
Ignition cutting out randomly, help
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I had dissasembled the cut-off switch a little while ago looking for a problem, it was pretty simple inside and I didn't see a problem but it could still be the culprit, I'll double check. I'm getting fuel ok, I wish it was something simple, but I'll remove the cap next time as well. thanks.
How does a CDI operate? Is there a low oil pressure cut off or anything like that? I should of mentioned that sometimes after it stalls, when I try to start it, I get the click noise while my dashboard freaks out.
How does a CDI operate? Is there a low oil pressure cut off or anything like that? I should of mentioned that sometimes after it stalls, when I try to start it, I get the click noise while my dashboard freaks out.
that does sound electrical,,,,im worthless when it comes to electrical
as far as the gas cap,gas will flow until it vapor locks to the point where not enough fuel is getting to the carb,,,and if the vent ,or tube slowly lets are into the tank it will still give the appearance of having plenty of fuel
i only mentioned it because ive seen this problem several times over the years,,,,and im worthless when it comes to electrical problems,so it was the only thing i had to offer up,,,lol
as far as the gas cap,gas will flow until it vapor locks to the point where not enough fuel is getting to the carb,,,and if the vent ,or tube slowly lets are into the tank it will still give the appearance of having plenty of fuel
i only mentioned it because ive seen this problem several times over the years,,,,and im worthless when it comes to electrical problems,so it was the only thing i had to offer up,,,lol
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Sounds like to me you need a meter like you said once the problem occurs start with elec key switch and start working back. As for your coil I do beleive the manual gives some numbers that you can check the meter to see if good.
BTW might want to look at your plug wire and make sure you check the ohms or resistence on that and see if that is good, maybe even the boot.
BTW might want to look at your plug wire and make sure you check the ohms or resistence on that and see if that is good, maybe even the boot.
DukeBoy, do you have a winch? is it wet? do you have the positive cable grounding somewhere?
I had the same problem once. I stalled in the river, too deep too fast! (see old posts on pull starting the griz). I found my warn winch was wet.
The Dashboard was flashing on and off, then fading out. I could here a constant click sound, then I disconnected the positive winch cable from the battery, and voila!! problem solved.
It was too much effort to remove the seat, take out spanners and remove the battery cover, and then remove the battery terminal, so I have now put an isolator switch on the cable to make ot easier in future!
I had the same problem once. I stalled in the river, too deep too fast! (see old posts on pull starting the griz). I found my warn winch was wet.
The Dashboard was flashing on and off, then fading out. I could here a constant click sound, then I disconnected the positive winch cable from the battery, and voila!! problem solved.
It was too much effort to remove the seat, take out spanners and remove the battery cover, and then remove the battery terminal, so I have now put an isolator switch on the cable to make ot easier in future!
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Yes I have Warn 2.5. Mine is wired to a solienoid, but I could put a switch on the 12v lead that comes from the key. I had a friend who kept bumping the outfeed button while riding so having a kill switch may be a good idea anyway. I'll check that out as well, thanks.
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