I am just getting ready to change mine too. I would stay away from synthetics because the book says that the engine oil is also the clutch oil, and not to use oils with higher quality than sg, sj, etc. to avoid slippage, but who knows?
I use 10w30 Havoline myself,and in my pick-up and Wifes car,riding mower,tractor etc.
So far it has not let me down,none of the vehicles in the past or present,has ever used oil between oil changes.Some use the heavier vis oils for hotter climents because they worry of oil break down when the heat is on.
I believe the 10w30 serves well in the hot and cold climents the best,because a heavier vis oil does not dissapate heat as well,even if it is not so easy to break down.Helps to keep the engine running cooler.
OK here is my story. I have always been the one to use specfic atv oil. Always read and herd that the automotive oil just don't have the same properties as the atv or motorcycle oils have. I am now getting to the point where the oil I use is Maxima Oil, when I had my Banshee engine built by Duncan Racing that was what they sugested even if I don't buy from them. Ever since I have been using it in all my atv's.
I have only found it through mail order to this day and it cost me about $3.00 a quart for 10w40. I do use Mobil 1 in my Explorer wich cost me a little more but I can get it at Wallmart.
I guess my question is do you guys see any need or any differences in me using this oil from any other automotive oil from Wallmart. It has started to be a pain to order oil for my Raptor and the two Grizzlys over the net. Not to metion the price of shipping on it. Usally order from Rocky Mountain who has been vary good so far but just start to get tired of it.
I have hauled lubeoil in the past!The base oil will be the same,that is your vis oil.It could be from 10 wt oils up to 50 wt oils .Each and everyone of the oil companys have there own own certain additives that they put in at the bottling plants facility.
Some of the additives make`s the oil thinner in the winter and thicker in the summer.I`ve seen 4 diffrent oil brands roll of the line from the product that I had just brought in,and the only difference was what additive was injected into the lines when each bottle was being filled.
If you want to know my answer to your question,it is in my last statement on this subject.The 10w-30w Havoline has filled the bill for me in all of the different motorized vehicles I own and has not let me down yet!
I do not believe that you have to by a lube oil from just a certain maker of it to get the same results.
Two oil co`s I would stay away from,that I`ve had dealings with would be Quaker State and Penzoil.Unless they have changed there ways,these two had the heaviest ash content and would let you know if ever you pulled the valve cover off a vehicle you owned after 80,000 mi of running there oil.
I am running motorcycle specific synthetic oil from ams oil 20w/50, at least I will on the next oil change, right now I have 15w/50 mobil 1 in it.
Swampyjoe is right on the Quaker state etc. oils, any pennslvania crude oil will leave a sludge in the engine, they are all parrifin based oils. I saw that first hand when I worked at a service station while going thru high school. We had a customer that bought a new chevy, we did all of the oil changes on the car from new, at 35,000 miles his oil pump failed, we tore the engine down to replace it and there wasn't a bare space inside the valve cover for anything except for the lifters and push rods, everything else was covered with a waxy sludge.
I have used Amsoil 10/40 for a year now in my Grizzly and it runs alot smoother and the temp is lower than yamahalube. I also use the Amsoil filter. For winter I will be using Amsoil 0/40 ATv oil. Perfectly safe in wetclutch applications.
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