Hey 4x4Rod, I run Amsoil synthetic in everything. Not that I know it works but I put it in everything I own. I like fact that it stays runny in the cold for those winter start-ups and doesn't turn too watery when it gets hot. One thing I've noticed though is that it seems to be disappearing in my 05 Grizzly crankcase. Ever since I changed over from the original oil that was in it when I bought it, I have to add a little every second ride. I hope thats OK.
I believe in synthetics all the way, it is a bit more expensive but it is far superior than conventional oils in my opinion. I use Amsoil 0w-40 in the engine and full synthetic in my diffs. Hopefully this link works for you?
Try both of these links, the second one is full of great info on breaking in you quad/bikes and has tons of info on oils, grease, etc........Irv
I also use amsoil it is a very good product, my bike starts easier and does seem to run cooler with it.I all so use it in my trucks got an extra 2 miles to the gallon just by changing to synthetics in the diffs.
This issue comes up every few months. I use Yamalube or any regular motor oil that is NOT energy saving. The energy saving ones have friction modifiers in them that screw up the wet clutch in the Grizzly. I don't know if the synthetic oils have the friction modifiers or not, but I know that the Yamalube or other motorcycle/ATV oils don't.
I just looked on Yamaha's website and looked at their most recent (2006) owners manual. On page 10-2, it states:
In order to prevent clutch slipage (since the engine oil also lubricates the clutch), do not mix any chemical addatives. Do not use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do not use oils labeled "ENERGY CONSERVING II" or higher.
That pretty much tells me not to use synthetic oils in my machine. "Do not use oils of a higher quality than specified"
I believe the AMSOIL 0W-40 meets all of the Yamaha specifications. Even though I use AMSOIL I have to agree that there is nothing wrong with continuing to use standard oil. Which ever oil you use IMO it is best to not exceed the factory change intervals. Even though I use the synthetic I still change oil and filter on a regular schedule which is more agressive than the factory change intervals.
I may be wasting my money but the only true way to determine if oil is still good is having it tested and I have never looked into doing that or the cost of testing oil. Something I should probably do one of these days.
I use Maxima 10w40 premium. I have used there oils every since my Banshee, four other honda's and now the Grizzly's and have had no problems with any. I do want to switch to syn in the diffs though.
FYI I do run full syn Mobil 1 in all my cars and trucks so I do beleive in them just not real hot on the idea in the atv. Although I do still change my oil in the car and truck at the regualr 3000 miles.
Well, here's my 39 cents. (Thats for you nizz! Ha) First off, using regular motor oils is not a good idea. You should be using a oil classified as MA for motorcycle use. Car oil will cause more wear on your transmission due to the fact it is missing some additives that cling to gears. Car oil does not have these because of the seperate engine/transmission. Once inside the MA oils, in my opinion there isn't enough difference to get excited over. Choosing the correct weight seems to be a controversy as well. I have found that 10w-40 covers temps from -10 to 120. I just bought two quarts of maxima atv blend but ive used hondalube and never had problems. I don't use yamalube because they dont sell 10w-40. I'm not changing my oil because of temperature.I think any of the manufactures blends and many aftermarket oils should provide plenty of protection for our motors. It's like a pepsi versus coke thing.
I really hate to see this one get started,,, but make it a coke for ,,,, just my forty cents worth(I figured by the time you read this this nizzzz will have the price to mail a letter up),,,,,,, Oh yea,, just to keep it on topic,,, I use yamaha oil,,,,, ,,,, ,,,,, ,,, cg
Here's my $.41
When I bought my brand new Honda CBR954RR (sport bike) I waitied until after the 600 mile break-in period to run a full synthetic. I was very skeptical cause of all the rumors I had heard about syn and the fact that this is a 150hp bike with a wet clutch. I thought clutch slipage was going to be an issue. None the less, I went with Amsoil 10w40 (for motorcycles) and had 0 negative issues with it. I was nervous riding it with the syn for the first 500 miles cause I thought that the clutch was slipping under HARD acceleration in 1st gear. Then one day my buddy asks me if i'm trying to smoke my tire on purpose. I say what do you mean? He says everytime we race off from a light (in 1st gear) your tire smokes at about 25mph (in the midrange of the motor in 1st) and you leave a black strip on the assphault! Turns out my bike is making more power with the syn and actually smoking the tire and not slipping the clutch! I ran syn in the bike for 10k and have had no clutch issues whatsoever, even with HARD use.
This is why I have no reservations about putting Amsoil in every engine I own, including my Grizzly. If a 150hp crotch rocket won't slip the stock clutch, then there is no way the 40hp Grizzly can or will. I believe the CVT clutch will slip first anyways. I run Amsoil in my 1996 Dodge Ram 5.2L with 157,000 and there is no blowby, no oil consumption or burning, a noticable difference, and +2 mpg. I will always run Amsoil.
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