[robg]

Our Grizzlies all run great when they're new (well, usually). Then after a few thousand miles, things change. Mine, for example won't run for crap when it's cold. It starts just fine... but unless I let it idle for at least 5-6 minutes, it will sputter and pop and die if I try to ride it using more than about 1/5 throttle.

I adjusted the float a good while back and that helped a little, but it didn't cure it. The carb has never been gummed up and has been cleaned several times with spray cans of carb cleaner, but never taken out and soaked. I have no idea how to get the bloody throttle cable off so I can actaully remove it from the ATV.

Any ideas on things to check? Or how to get the cable off? I'd love to soak it and put it back together and check the specs on everything. Any parts I should replace while I'm at it?

Rob

 

[xtremegrizz]

Rob;

Not looking at the machine or nothing but from some of my other atv's cant you just on screw the top cap of the carb where the cable goes in and lift out the whole slide and everything with the cable still attached?

 

[stonemanrip]

I would suggest the very first thing to do is change the plug. The plug is the cheapest fix. Then go for the expensive stuff. I took mine in for the first service and when they gave it back it ran like doogie! I took it back thinking what a SCAM! But, all that was wrong? A filed plug. The man told me they replace plugs all the time, when they are starting and stopping in cold weather just to move them out front for shoppers to see. Another thing, I think Yamaha makes a great product, so it has to be the plug. Chuck

 

[calaski]

Just like a woman... no one really knows what makes them tempermental... We just try and make the best of it because they are so much fun to ride.

Jim

 

[blue_grizzly_04]

[email protected] Grizzly NJ!

 

[nwillenborg1]

mine did that also if the plug doesnt fix it,u will need to adjust the valves and then you should be all good.

 

[stonemanrip]

well now mine has filed a plug for the second time. I don't even have 38 hours total on the machine. this is a disturbing situation. i don't trust the dealer with doing even warranty work. adjusting the valves? it's hard enough to get to the spark plug I guess I'm going to have to take off all the plastic, BUMMER!!!

 

[dknarnd]

Rip,

No need to take any more plastinc off other than the gas tank cover and tank to do the valves. Other than plastic remove the two front wheels and you can reach the exhaust valves from uner the front fenders, tight but doable.

 

[stonemanrip]

Thanks, first i'm going to try a hotter plug. adjusting valves just sounds hard. but when i do have to get down-to-it, thanks for the info. take off the tires and the gas tank. it ran fine until i took it in for it's first warranty service. i think they sabatoged it so they could have repeat warranty work!

 

[dknarnd]

I would look into the other options before putting in a hotter plug. Can't recall any of the details but I remember reading about plug heat ranges and generally you do not want to change what is specificed by the manufacturer for a stock engine.

Robg, do you think the carb really gets gummed up on a machine that you are using? I could see if it set for a year without use but even running a half tank every month should not cause it to gum up. Do you have an inline fuel filter installed? What is the condition of your air cleaner? Is it running to rich at idle or lean? If you are going to tear it apart and clean it then may as well put a rebuild kit in it, that will give you new jets, needle, gaskets.

 

[xtremegrizz]

DKNARD:

I have to agree with you on the hotter plug. I also remember reading somewhere anout doing that only for a quick fix but not to solve the problem. Not sure where it was that I read it but don't think it is the cure if it works.

 

[stonemanrip]

OK, check this out. When I was giving it gas it would die. So I thought look and see if there was a fuel filter. But, when I put it on reserve it runs fine.No one needs to tell me to put gas in it. It is full!, But it won't run when the petcock is on ON, but runs fine when it's on RESERVE. So, I did buy a hotter plug and the problem still exsisted, but tomorrow I'm going to but the old plug back in because that wasn't the problem at all. Strange because it use to run just fine in the ON position. Two world fairs and a monkey show, and I aint never seen no **** like this. Chuck

 

[xtremegrizz]

Just a thought here. Is it possible that at sometime the petcock plastic knob or whatever you call it. The thing you turn the gas on and off with was taken off and put on a half of turn off. So when you are on you really are off and reserve is on. Just a thought, not looking at the machine to really know if you can put it on wrong like that or not.

 

[dknarnd]

Also why don't you pull the fuel line off of the carb and then check if you have the same flow in the ON position as in the RES position.

 

[stonemanrip]

Thanks, i'm going to try pulling the hose and checking the ON position. And then I'll know if the plastic knob was taken off during the first service maintenance. It's running so I'm happy. I just find it hard to believe Yamaha would ever let me down. Chuck

 

[stonemanrip]

Thanks, i'm going to try pulling the hose and checking the ON position. And then I'll know if the plastic knob was taken off during the first service maintenance. It's running so I'm happy. I just find it hard to believe Yamaha would ever let me down. Chuck

 

[nwillenborg1]

i tell you what my 04 grizz was doing the same **** as yours ,Ive had sooooo many **** problems with it. i dont no what i did but i got pissed of at it put it on the on position and went and ran the dog piss out of it i mean i hit bumps and went of creek ledges wide open and finally it just quit and hasnt done it since. i no it isnt a good way to fix it but **** it worked

 

[rentalrider]

A couple helping hands for you...possibly. First, to remove the throttle cable, unscrew the plate atop the thumb/throttle grip and disconnect the cable from this end. Then remove the oblong cover on the opposite end of that cable. There will be a brass "nut" which the cable attaches to. Grab with needle nose and spin, pull away from center until it works free. DON'T LET GO of the brass nut. You're done. Remove the carb and pray. That being said, I think you're problem is different than carb. I am finding out more, now of the valves on these bikes running outside of tolerance. This would explain how (like mine) your bike ran worse after a service. They check and adjust these valves on break in checks, heat shield warranty work and scheduled maintenance. The technician could very easily have adjusted these valves too far, not far enough, etc., etc... who knows.

I'm currently trying to find out how to check and adjust these on my own. Good luck to you, I'll keep you posted on what I find as well.

 

[robg]

Mine still runs funny even with a new plug. I think the float and/or the Air-Fuel screw is to blame. I may buy a new float and spring thing and try that.

But realistically, right now it's easy to just let it warm up for a few minutes instead. It'll get lots of use this winter since the plow mount is now on it, eagerly awaiting snow!!

Rob

 

[nearfuturegrizz]

not to put salt in wound but you shouldnt be firing it up and running the piss outta it right away anyways. your doing it right by letting it fully warm up then running the piss out of it. my suzuki does spit and sputter too when i first fire it up. i fire it up till i dont need the choke, then give it some good blips of throttle (in neutral) until it will idle normally, then i just on it and it spits and sputters but run the piss outta it for a few minutes and its fine. now this is not the way iyou should be doing it. its not good for engine because the oil is not warm enough to sling around and lube the internals, and no lubing means more heat = some major engine damage or boom! my suzuki is an 86 with close to 7900 kms on it and im not too worried about it, since im not taking it to alberta with me and im getting a new grizz. i've had no probs with it internally.... now losing the reverse gear shifter is a problem... its somewhere out in my back field buried underneath about 2 inches of snow. so when the snow melts i will find it. i am using a pair of small vise frips right now its working, but cant keep using them because we need them in the shop. if my knowledge is wrong on letting an engine fully warm before riding then please tell/correct me. i've rebuilt a briggs and stratton 3.5 horse engine in material explorations 9, 3 years ago and it ran third pull. i want to eventually work a small engine shop or start my own business repairing small engines, so if my info is wrong please tell me. thanx. hope you get your grizz figured out....